the rest of Edinburgh

Edinburgh (pronounced "edn-BURR-ah" see/listen Krulwich on Science) was vibrant and dirty and alive. We loved it.

The castle, and heart of the city, seemed to be chisled from the rock from which it reigned. Perhaps it was the weather, brisk and bright during the day and cold and clear at night, that made the city feel so alive. Perhaps it was the steep slopes, like an Escher drawing, with people in constant motion. or the deep gash of Princes Street Gardens, only just beginning to bloom but teeming with fribee players, readers, loungers, walkers.

Off the 'Royal Mile' are narrow passageways and small closes with interesting names and intruiging architecture. The pleasure of walking down the street doesn't come from windowshopping for yet another tam o'shanter with fake red hair, but from venturing down these alleys- sometimes down stairs sometimes into cavernous 16th century courtyards.

The View to Calton Hill from the castle was beautiful and the view from it towards the Forth of Firth was crystal clear.

For dinner we met Bunny and George in Leith. It felt a bit like a fledgling Harbor Place with an American-style mall and everything. The mall has, as one of its anchor attractions, the old royal yacht (cruise ship) Britannia. Jason and I were going to visit it, but we decided to save our money and, instead, had a little snack and some cake overlooking it in the cafe and a cruise around the gift shop. The souvenir book had lots of great pics and a handy map. Felt like you were there.

We had dinner at fisher's bistro. We sat in the bar, but it was still very good and came recommended by guide books and local alike. According to Bunny and George, also a great place to sit by the water and have a beer or a chardonay. There was also, what looked like, a good wine bar The Waterfront and its sister restaurant on the water. Maybe next time.